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Author Topic: Lippert Bedroom Slide assembly  (Read 5421 times)
Hut
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« Reply #75 on: March 05, 2010, 10:07:59 PM »

If it's the nut backing off and not the bolt stretching maybe try using nylock nuts with the blue lock-tite(if you didn't already).
Lock washers aren't that great, Teethes (star) washers do a better job staying put.

Hope ya get it figured out.
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2006 Ram 2500 CTD QC LWB SRW 4X4 48RE Made in Fenton, Mo. USA
2008 HHII LS 34.5 UKSBG
It is an unfortunate human failing that a full pocketbook often groans more loudly than an empty stomach. FDR
kkro
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Snoqualmie Summit 4/2009


« Reply #76 on: March 06, 2010, 12:57:24 AM »

If it's the nut backing off and not the bolt stretching maybe try using nylock nuts with the blue lock-tite(if you didn't already).
Lock washers aren't that great, Teethes (star) washers do a better job staying put.

Hope ya get it figured out.

No nuts on these, Hut. The bolts (grade 8, I bought 'em) thread into the gear housing, which appears to be some kind of pot metal (grade 1/2 maybe  cry). I have them tight, but also fear stripping the threads in the gear housing if I reef on the bolts too much. As long as I remember to do it, periodic inspection and tightening is the easiest way to go for now. I don't even bother to screw down the floor boards under the bed anymore.
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Ken & Annie Kromann
Mukilteo, WA
2007 DA 327 RSB
2008 GMC 3500 4WD D/A CC DRW
B&W Companion 18K

In my many years I have come to the conclusion that one useless man is a shame, two is a law firm and three or more is a congress.    ---John Adams
Hut
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« Reply #77 on: March 06, 2010, 01:34:46 AM »

If it's the nut backing off and not the bolt stretching maybe try using nylock nuts with the blue lock-tite(if you didn't already).
Lock washers aren't that great, Teethes (star) washers do a better job staying put.

Hope ya get it figured out.

No nuts on these, Hut. The bolts (grade 8, I bought 'em) thread into the gear housing, which appears to be some kind of pot metal (grade 1/2 maybe  cry). I have them tight, but also fear stripping the threads in the gear housing if I reef on the bolts too much. As long as I remember to do it, periodic inspection and tightening is the easiest way to go for now. I don't even bother to screw down the floor boards under the bed anymore.
Ahhh I see. I don't blame you for being concerned about those threads.
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2006 Ram 2500 CTD QC LWB SRW 4X4 48RE Made in Fenton, Mo. USA
2008 HHII LS 34.5 UKSBG
It is an unfortunate human failing that a full pocketbook often groans more loudly than an empty stomach. FDR
"Highlander"
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"Highlander"


« Reply #78 on: March 06, 2010, 01:43:55 AM »

To whom it may concern !!!!!
The bedroom slides by Lippert are a joke... no hahaha here Huh
The metal plate and bearing with the adjustable screw....... which I installed after reading about them here on the forum... only serviced the symptoms but did not correct the problem totally .... worked sometimes but not always...
My bedroom slide kept acting up, sometimes it would work most if not all the summer, then the next time you try to use it,... it would make a loud popping sound and quit working.....or just work intermittently.... starting, stopping never knowing if it was or not Huh
After the 3rd time removing the motor and drive tranny from the bedroom slide I took the transmission apart, opened it up and was looking around inside as I had done before but this time I looked very closely at the output shaft and final drive gear........ The 2 (two) slots in the gear (final drive gear) inside the trans are suppose to go on the the pin that is sticking through the output shaft that goes out of the trans to the final gear with the chain driver clog..... it slips when the chain pulls the final drive back toward the headboard ... This is why the metal plate and bearing seems to fix the problem........ but the real problem is inside the tranny... I cleaned all the grease off of the final gear and output shaft and welded them with a MIG welder filling up both holes in the gear, this welded the gear, the shaft and the pin all together and  then I took a small grinder and cleaned the excess weld off the gear.. After cleaning and re greasing all the gears and reassembling the tranny I reinstalled the motor and trans... I did leave the metal plate installed to keep any pressure off the final drive and gear but I don't think I will ever have to disassemble it again. If you are still having problems with your bedroom slide you might want to look very closely at the inside final drive gear and output shaft inside the tranny...
Hope this helps.....
Roy
Not a mechanic or engineer but just fed up with the lippert bedroom slide drive assemble...
Who do they have engineering this stuff anyway.... Thanks for letting me vent... angry angry angry
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kkro
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Snoqualmie Summit 4/2009


« Reply #79 on: March 06, 2010, 04:20:00 AM »

To whom it may concern !!!!!
The bedroom slides by Lippert are a joke... no hahaha here Huh
The metal plate and bearing with the adjustable screw....... which I installed after reading about them here on the forum... only serviced the symptoms but did not correct the problem totally .... worked sometimes but not always...
My bedroom slide kept acting up, sometimes it would work most if not all the summer, then the next time you try to use it,... it would make a loud popping sound and quit working.....or just work intermittently.... starting, stopping never knowing if it was or not Huh
After the 3rd time removing the motor and drive tranny from the bedroom slide I took the transmission apart, opened it up and was looking around inside as I had done before but this time I looked very closely at the output shaft and final drive gear........ The 2 (two) slots in the gear (final drive gear) inside the trans are suppose to go on the the pin that is sticking through the output shaft that goes out of the trans to the final gear with the chain driver clog..... it slips when the chain pulls the final drive back toward the headboard ... This is why the metal plate and bearing seems to fix the problem........ but the real problem is inside the tranny... I cleaned all the grease off of the final gear and output shaft and welded them with a MIG welder filling up both holes in the gear, this welded the gear, the shaft and the pin all together and  then I took a small grinder and cleaned the excess weld off the gear.. After cleaning and re greasing all the gears and reassembling the tranny I reinstalled the motor and trans... I did leave the metal plate installed to keep any pressure off the final drive and gear but I don't think I will ever have to disassemble it again. If you are still having problems with your bedroom slide you might want to look very closely at the inside final drive gear and output shaft inside the tranny...
Hope this helps.....
Roy
Not a mechanic or engineer but just fed up with the lippert bedroom slide drive assemble...
Who do they have engineering this stuff anyway.... Thanks for letting me vent... angry angry angry

Highlander, I feel your pain. The last episode we had with the motor, the plastic gear lost several teeth and wouldn't drive. I went to a bearing and gear supply, but the tooth count was oddball, and I couldn't get a replacement for it. Your find may be a little different than what I experienced. Since the motor is mounted in slotted holes, and the bolts don't seem to stay tight, the motor slides enough to allow the drive chain to slacken, then choke and jam on itself. The first time, it popped the master link and the chain fell off. The second time, it ate the plastic gear. The bushing block helps to reduce some of the torquing of the motor that hastens the loosening of the bolts. I've also added a blocking plate that prevents the motor from sliding in the slotted holes. I also added the recommended current limiter. As long as everything is tight, the slide drives smoothly enough. The trick is to not let the chain get too much slack in it. Yeah, it's a lousy design, but it's what we're stuck with. At least I don't have a Lippert frame.
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Ken & Annie Kromann
Mukilteo, WA
2007 DA 327 RSB
2008 GMC 3500 4WD D/A CC DRW
B&W Companion 18K

In my many years I have come to the conclusion that one useless man is a shame, two is a law firm and three or more is a congress.    ---John Adams
kkro
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Snoqualmie Summit 4/2009


« Reply #80 on: March 06, 2010, 07:21:20 AM »

Let me interject that my purpose for reopening this thread was to advise others with the same slide mechanism to check the mounting bolts periodically for tightness, not to reopen the sore subject of the slide itself. Other readers are certainly free to tell their stories and express their opinions.

My message: Check bolts so chain maintains adequate tension. Install current limiter. Future problems should be minimized.  Cool
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Ken & Annie Kromann
Mukilteo, WA
2007 DA 327 RSB
2008 GMC 3500 4WD D/A CC DRW
B&W Companion 18K

In my many years I have come to the conclusion that one useless man is a shame, two is a law firm and three or more is a congress.    ---John Adams
kid
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« Reply #81 on: May 29, 2010, 06:48:02 PM »

My bedroom slide just quit working also.  Our unit is a 32LK purchased in August 2006.  Reading over the post to see what to do. 
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Michael and Estrellita
Montana/Cebu
2003 Dodge truck
2007 DA 32 LK
Anthony
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« Reply #82 on: May 31, 2010, 02:38:47 AM »

Hey Kid, my 2006 ckqg just too a dump, the bedroom slide of coarse. My new motor and current limiter just arrived.......now I must spend time doing something that should not be an issue. Give me hydraulics any day! If I lived near NUWA I would tell them to do it!
« Last Edit: May 31, 2010, 12:46:18 PM by Anthony » Logged

2006 NUWA DA 32.5 CKQG
2006 Dodge 3500 DRW Quadcab 4x4 auto 3:73
1966 Pontiac GTO Tri-Power
gitane59
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« Reply #83 on: May 31, 2010, 11:46:52 AM »

All this talk of bedroom slide failure has me scared to death of buying my first HH DA!!! Sad

I am/was planning on hammering out a deal this coming weekend on a left over 06 DA 35CKQG but with all the threads about slide out failure I am tellin the DW that I not so sure I want a HH. Just how bad are the slide mechanism's and does it affect anymore than the bedroom slide.

After reading several threads I am getting very cold feet!!!!    
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Trekker
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2008 F350, 2008 333DA, F.B.I. & RN, ret.


« Reply #84 on: May 31, 2010, 11:58:19 AM »

I had a 2005 HH11 for three years. By my count, I set up over 100 times and no bed slide failures. My friend who bought it has also had no problems. I bought an 08 333DA and so far have set it up over 40 times with no problems. Have heard a few slight pops when I put to much stuff under the bed, but when I reduce the weight, it cycles smoothly and the poping goes away. That said, I am aware of the problems and am always a little relieved when the slide is in. I would not be afraid of a HH due to the slides. What does Montana, cardinal, Mobile Suites, Excel, etc use anayway. Who makes their slides. I can't believe HH is Lippert's only customer!!!.
Trekker
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Dan Berkery
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« Reply #85 on: May 31, 2010, 12:01:36 PM »

Roy .....

Do you have any pictures of the "transmission" repair procedure ?

Dan.
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Dan and Nora Berkery, Newport News, Virginia
2006, HH2, 32.5 FKSBG, MOR/ryde "IS", Hyd disc brakes.
2002, F-350, Crew Cab, 4X4, Diesel, Duallie, Long Box, BrakeSmart controller, Blue Ox bedsaver.
"Not so lean, not so mean, but still a Marine"
1965 Viet Nam Vet

http://community.webshots.com/user/xdvbx
Anthony
"Living the Dream"
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"Living the Dream"


« Reply #86 on: May 31, 2010, 12:54:26 PM »

I would NOT buy one unless the dealer installed a new slide mechanism. I don't mean the band-aid afforded us by means of a current controller, I mean the new worm-gear drive mechanism, NOT THE CHAIN DRIVE. Other than this bed slide issue I would buy another NUWA product.
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2006 NUWA DA 32.5 CKQG
2006 Dodge 3500 DRW Quadcab 4x4 auto 3:73
1966 Pontiac GTO Tri-Power
Bill and Sandy Steele
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« Reply #87 on: May 31, 2010, 01:16:21 PM »

I would agree with Anthony.  The chain drive is a bad design as supplied.  I would press for the rack and pinion design which can be retrofit.

We have the chain drive with the outboard bearing bandaid fix which many on this board have installed.   

Bill
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Bill and Sandy Steele
2004 RLTG
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Wrench
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« Reply #88 on: May 31, 2010, 01:41:17 PM »

I have missed something so someone please fill me in on the worm gear option (replacement mechanism) cost time to install etc.
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Neil & Karol Scott
Neil: Retired CAPT USN
Karol: Retired Master Chief USN
2008 Chev 3500 Dually Diesel
2009 CE CKQG
EdJ
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« Reply #89 on: May 31, 2010, 01:54:42 PM »

I would not avoid buying a HH just because of a 'potential' design flaw in the bdrm slide.  Sure, the Lippert slide is a weak link.  But I am sure that all the other brands of trailers have either that or other weak links also...  Some people have had problems with the slide.  But not that many considering all the people who have not had any problems.  If it was really a major problem, there would be a whole lot more "Me Too" posts.  Knowledge is power.  Just check the bdrm slide mechanics for potential problems like a slack chain or mis-alignment and do not overload the under-bed storage area.
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Ed
1999 Dodge 2500 diesel, 6-spd manual, long bed
2007 HitchHiker Discover America 329RSB
1999 Sunnybrook 27RKFS 5th-wheel
Summer-Vestal, NY   Winter-Melbourne, FL
Ancient Mariner
Greg Surratt
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« Reply #90 on: May 31, 2010, 02:57:58 PM »

I have missed something so someone please fill me in on the worm gear option (replacement mechanism) cost time to install etc.
I can't answer as to cost, but time to install was about two hours under warranty.  It does not require removal of the slide, however, you'll have to completely clean out everything stored under the bed, and remove the mattress.  I got one of the first replacement mechanisms.  Pictures are in my gallery.

I have had zero problems with the new mechanism.  My old one failed twice, both times on trips, and the first time we had only used the slide mechansim 3 times.  The second was a year later, at which point a Lippert tech informed me the had a new design.  I was in Indiana, so I went a couple hundred miles out of my way to have Lippert do the work at their factory.
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Greg
Retired Member of the U.S. Navy's 1% Club!
Enjoying Champagne on the King Ranch
2006 King Ranch F-350 Tow Boss Diesel Dually 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed
2007 Champagne Edition NuWa HitchHiker 37CKRD with TrailAir all around
Wrench
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« Reply #91 on: May 31, 2010, 10:04:08 PM »

Thanks to all. I have not experienced a failure just a bit nervous that about the when and if part.  I know it is a very small percentage of people that have had a problem I also know that if it were a systemic problem NU-WA would have corrected. All I need is an understanding that in case of failure I can disassemble the mechanism manually retract the slide and move my 5th wheel safely to where a proper repair can be made whether that is remove and replace or remove and upgrade.
Note to gilane buy the HH new or used you will get best product for the money spent.
Neil   
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Neil & Karol Scott
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Karol: Retired Master Chief USN
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2009 CE CKQG
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Greg Surratt
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« Reply #92 on: June 01, 2010, 12:30:40 AM »

All I need is an understanding that in case of failure I can disassemble the mechanism manually retract the slide and move my 5th wheel safely to where a proper repair can be made whether that is remove and replace or remove and upgrade.

Neil   
That's easy enough.  If you have a failure, once you get under the bed and get the drive-train disconnected by ether removing the chain or removing the motor from the mounts, that will free up the slide.  Two people should be able to push it back in for travel.

Once you get it in place, take a couple of 2x4's cut long enough to wedge between the inside wall of the trailer and the top flange of the slide.  You might want to put a folded washcloth at each end of the 2x4's to protect the walls.  This will hold the slide in during travel in the absence of the braking feature of the slide mechanism.  It's a temporary fix to get to a place where you can get a more permanent solution to the problem, so it doesn't need to be pretty or elegant like a set of locking bars with rubber bumpers on each end.
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Greg
Retired Member of the U.S. Navy's 1% Club!
Enjoying Champagne on the King Ranch
2006 King Ranch F-350 Tow Boss Diesel Dually 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed
2007 Champagne Edition NuWa HitchHiker 37CKRD with TrailAir all around
Wrench
Sr. Member
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Posts: 297



« Reply #93 on: June 01, 2010, 01:45:54 AM »

Good information to know, hope if I ever need to use the info it is to help out a SOB owner and not a HH.
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Neil & Karol Scott
Neil: Retired CAPT USN
Karol: Retired Master Chief USN
2008 Chev 3500 Dually Diesel
2009 CE CKQG
CampingCaptain
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« Reply #94 on: June 01, 2010, 03:03:40 AM »

Wrench,
I would think a 2009 Champagne would already have the new bedroom slide mechanism.

Bryan
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Bryan & Lee Richardson
Egg Harbor Township, NJ
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Big Greg
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« Reply #95 on: June 01, 2010, 03:36:50 AM »

Bryon, I think Wrench should be OK too, our 2007 CE has the new bedroom slide mechanism and has been working 100% in 3+ years full timing and moving around quite a bit.   Greg
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Judy & Greg Bahnmiller; former Michiganders
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2007 35LKRSB
currently in Onsted, MI at our sons
Wrench
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« Reply #96 on: June 01, 2010, 09:40:50 PM »

Thanks and an other chance to not sweat the small stuff.  Did the factory tour today but was not able to see the bedroom slidemechanism those in production either did not have the slide or already had the bed frame down and secured. 
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Neil & Karol Scott
Neil: Retired CAPT USN
Karol: Retired Master Chief USN
2008 Chev 3500 Dually Diesel
2009 CE CKQG
kkro
Hero Member
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Posts: 1294


Snoqualmie Summit 4/2009


« Reply #97 on: June 02, 2010, 01:21:59 AM »

I would not avoid buying a HH just because of a 'potential' design flaw in the bdrm slide.  Sure, the Lippert slide is a weak link.  But I am sure that all the other brands of trailers have either that or other weak links also...  Some people have had problems with the slide.  But not that many considering all the people who have not had any problems.  If it was really a major problem, there would be a whole lot more "Me Too" posts.  Knowledge is power.  Just check the bdrm slide mechanics for potential problems like a slack chain or mis-alignment and do not overload the under-bed storage area.

I agree with Ed. I've experienced the drive problem twice (different failures), and have learned the motor part of the mechanism pretty well. A slide failure is a pain in the butt and frustrating, but it's not a catastrophe. If you can bargain for the new type slide, go for it, but don't walk away from an otherwise good deal if they don't bend to your wishes.
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Ken & Annie Kromann
Mukilteo, WA
2007 DA 327 RSB
2008 GMC 3500 4WD D/A CC DRW
B&W Companion 18K

In my many years I have come to the conclusion that one useless man is a shame, two is a law firm and three or more is a congress.    ---John Adams
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